A School from 1454 to the present day - Red School, Fener Greek Boys High School, Megali Scholio, Great School, Great School of the Nation

High on the steep hillside overlooking the Golden Horn is a large red brick building reminiscent of a fairytale castle. This building is the Fener Greek Boys High School, but whenever I see it, I half expect to see Rapunzel letting her hair out of one of the tower windows.

The district of Fener is one of the most ancient in Istanbul, known to the Byzantines as Fanarion and to the Ottoman Greeks as Fanaraki. In the 19th century it was famous for its masonry houses with richly decorated interiors in Turkish style and for its taverns.

It is thought to have been named after the lantern (fener) which during Byzantine times was lit at night in the tower next to Fener Gate so that ships sailing up the Golden Horn would not be wrecked on the rocky shores of the inlet.

The Greek Orthodox Patriarchate moved to its new site in the district of Fener in 1601, and from this time on wealthy Greek families began to settle in Fener. In the 19th century, however, they moved to new homes in Beyoglu on the other side of the Golden Horn, and Fener went into decline. Today it is a dilapidated but quaint area of steep cobbled streets and old stone houses with bay windows, where it is a pleasure to wander around, getting lost and discovering the many historic buildings here. Referred to locally as the Red School, Fener Greek Boys High School is a much older institution than the building itself, which dates only from 1881. It was established in Byzantine times as the Patriarchate School and with the exception of a brief period following the Turkish conquest, has remained the principal Greek school in Istanbul ever since. Sultan Mehmed II conquered Istanbul in 1453 and in 1454 gave permission for the school to reopen. In Ottoman times it became known as the Megali Scholio or the Great School.

Construction of the present building began in 1881 and was completed in 1883 at a total cost of 17,210 gold liras, donated by wealthy bankers and other members of the Greek community, and by Varopedi Monastery in Aynaroz. Running costs of the school were in the past met by the patriarch, metropolitans, churches and wealthy Greek citizens, as well as by fees paid by the pupils. Today they are met by rents from property endowed by members of the Greek community and donations.

In Ottoman times most of the Greek notables were educated here, including many patriarchs and other officers of the church, interpreters in the employ of the Ottoman government, and Ottoman voivodes (governors) of Moldavia and Wallachia. The new building is a striking example of fashions in architecture in the 19th century. On one of the towers can be seen the name of the architect, Dimadis, and the date 1881.

The school was built according to anti-seismic principles so it has not suffered much earthquake damage. The bricks were imported from France. The lobed dome has a high drum and lantern light. In the high ceilinged top storey is an observatory with a telescope. Another Greek school of the same period, Zografyon, specialised in mathematics, while Fener Boys High School specialised in literature and history.

Another Greek school of the same period, Zografyon, specialised in mathematics, while Fener Boys High School specialised in literature and history. Hanging on the walls of the school hall are oil paintings depicting writers and philosophers. Other paintings illustrate ancient stories from Homer's Iliad. The interior of the hall is predominantly neo-classical in style, with palmettes, ovolo and bead mouldings and composite column capitals. Bird motifs on the capitals lend a fairytale-like touch in keeping with the exterior.

Meander motifs symbolising infinity feature both on the façade and in the interior decoration. Another allegorical motif is the owl, the ancient symbol of wisdom, which appears in relief on the upper parts of the walls in the school hall.

Hanging on the walls of the school hall are oil paintings depicting writers and philosophers. Other paintings illustrate ancient stories from Homer's Iliad. The interior of the hall is predominantly neo-classical in style, with palmettes, ovolo and bead mouldings and composite column capitals. Bird motifs on the capitals lend a fairytale-like touch in keeping with the exterior. Meander motifs symbolising infinity feature both on the façade and in the interior decoration. Another allegorical motif is the owl, the ancient symbol of wisdom, which appears in relief on the upper parts of the walls in the school hall.

The school has ten classrooms, a library, and computer, chemistry, physics and biology laboratories. Today around 50 pupils, both boys and girls, attend the school. A former pupil, now a specialist in internal medicine, Dr Yorgi Adosoglu, said that in the past there were about 400 boys at the school, and there were no women on the staff. He recalled that some of the pupils used to help at Sunday services in the patriarchal church.

The school is visible from a considerable distance, and immediately recognisable with its red brick and white decoration. To reach it is a short but steep walk up the steep winding roads from the southern shore of the Golden Horn.

Labels: Buildings, Golden Horn, Istanbul, Schools

25 Comments

The Istanbul Toy Museum is a small museum dedicated to toys. This very sweet museum was founded by Turkish novelist and poet Sunay Akin in 2005. Consists Sunay Akin's collection of 4,000 toys and miniatures from Turkey and abroad.

Labels: Anatolian side, Museums

0 Comments

Taksim Square situated in the European part of Istanbul, is a major shopping, tourist and leisure district famed for its restaurants, shops and hotels. It is considered the heart of modern Istanbul, and is the location of the Taksim Republic Monument, which was built in 1928 and that commemorates the formation of the Turkish Republic.

Taksim was originally the point in Istanbul, where the main water line from north of Istanbul collected, and branched off to other parts of the city. This use for the area was established by Sultan Mahmut I. The Square takes its name from the stone reservoir that is located on the side of the square.

Taksim is a popular destination for both tourists and natives of Istanbul. Istiklal Caddesi ends at the square, and a nostalgic tram runs from the square along the avenue, ending near the Tünel. Surrounding Taksim Square are numerous hotels, as well as restaurants, pubs, travel agencies, etc. Included in these restaurants, are American chains such as Pizza Hut, and Burger King.

Taksim is also the location of official events such as parades or other military gatherings. Atatürk Cultural Center is a multi-purpose cultural center, also located in Taksim Square.

The Turkish word Taksim refers to a special improvisational musical form that is guided by the Makam system. However the word "Taksim" is used in its original meaning here which is to distribute. The reason for this is that in the earlier times, drinking water supply was distributed in this location and thus the square takes its name from this service.

Labels: Istanbul, Sightseeing, Taksim

0 Comments

This museum, opened to the public in 1953, consists of the remains of the Great Palace of the Byzantine Empire built by Constantine the Great (324-337).

Excavated in 1935, these remains consist of mosaics, columns and other architectural pieces which had once been part of the Great Palace. Part of the bazaar of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque Complex is also exhibited in this museum.


Mozaik Müzesi
Arasta Carsisi, Sultanahmet (212) 518 12 05
Open daily 9.00 - 17.30 except Tuesday

Labels: Museums, Sultanahmet

1 Comments

First opened in 1939 in the Beyazit Medrese, this museum was moved in 1988 to its present site in the Fine Arts Hall of Yıldız Palace. The museum portrays the life of Istanbul through a collection of 18th and 19th century paintings, as well as historical and ethnographic objects such as glassware, china, textiles and metalwork.

Şehir Müzesi
Barbaras Bulvan, 80690 Yildiz (212) 258 53 44
Open daily 9.00-16.30 except Thursday

Labels: Museums

2 Comments

Residence of the last Ottoman sultans, the hotel that you see today is actually two buildings: the faithfully restored stone-and-marble sultan's palace (housing 12 VIP suites) and the modern five-star deluxe hotel, both standing majestically on the shores of the Bosphorus and presiding over a collection of sculpted lawns, marble gates, a waterside swimming pool, and even a putting green. Hard to believe that a little over a decade ago, the Çiragan was a burnt-out shell of its current and former splendor. The guest list reads like a who's who of international royalty, including American's own late and great John and Carolyn Kennedy; but remember, these guys book suites with Bosphorus views, while plebeians get stuck with the drearier and noisier park-facing rooms. (Specify a Bosphorus view when making your reservation, and avoid rooms at the center of the hotel, which sit above the restaurant, which sends food odors and smoke up through the vents.) Already-spacious rooms, made to seem larger thanks to high ceilings, were recently renovated to reflect a more Turkish feeling, with rich fabrics, dark wood, and tapestry accents. Similarly styled bathrooms include both tub and shower, as well as a selection of exclusive Borghese toiletries. The engineers wired the hotel to be "smart," which means automatic lights, voice mail, and self-regulating climate control. My advice? Book the best room you can afford; otherwise, you may be disappointed.

Facilities: 3 restaurants; numerous bars; indoor and outdoor swimming pools; putting green; health club; fitness room; Turkish bath; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting, laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; palace section

Address: Çiragan Cad. 84, Besiktas/Istanbul
Phone: 800/426-3135 in the US; 800/363-0366 in Canada, 0800/868-588 in the UK; 800/623-578 in Australia, 0800/446-368 in New Zealand, 0212/258-3377 in Istanbul
Web Site www.ciraganpalace.com

Labels: hotels, Istanbul

1 Comments