Residence of the last Ottoman sultans, the hotel that you see today is actually two buildings: the faithfully restored stone-and-marble sultan's palace (housing 12 VIP suites) and the modern five-star deluxe hotel, both standing majestically on the shores of the Bosphorus and presiding over a collection of sculpted lawns, marble gates, a waterside swimming pool, and even a putting green. Hard to believe that a little over a decade ago, the Çiragan was a burnt-out shell of its current and former splendor. The guest list reads like a who's who of international royalty, including American's own late and great John and Carolyn Kennedy; but remember, these guys book suites with Bosphorus views, while plebeians get stuck with the drearier and noisier park-facing rooms. (Specify a Bosphorus view when making your reservation, and avoid rooms at the center of the hotel, which sit above the restaurant, which sends food odors and smoke up through the vents.) Already-spacious rooms, made to seem larger thanks to high ceilings, were recently renovated to reflect a more Turkish feeling, with rich fabrics, dark wood, and tapestry accents. Similarly styled bathrooms include both tub and shower, as well as a selection of exclusive Borghese toiletries. The engineers wired the hotel to be "smart," which means automatic lights, voice mail, and self-regulating climate control. My advice? Book the best room you can afford; otherwise, you may be disappointed.

Facilities: 3 restaurants; numerous bars; indoor and outdoor swimming pools; putting green; health club; fitness room; Turkish bath; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; shopping arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting, laundry service; dry cleaning; nonsmoking rooms; palace section

Address: Çiragan Cad. 84, Besiktas/Istanbul
Phone: 800/426-3135 in the US; 800/363-0366 in Canada, 0800/868-588 in the UK; 800/623-578 in Australia, 0800/446-368 in New Zealand, 0212/258-3377 in Istanbul
Web Site www.ciraganpalace.com

Labels: hotels, Istanbul

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